Onward to South Shore, September 14, 2012

I begin today's blog a bit more melancholy than usual.  Today demonstrated to me that not all tourist attractions are happy ones, and the power of imagination and reality can collide with the power and magnitude history produces at times.

An early "off and running" kind of morning, had us leave our Taylor Coach behind, and jump in Davis' car once again to be away by 8:15.  Davis took us over the MacKay Bridge in Halifax which lead us to the Nova Scotia's South Shore.  This part of the province has been what Ken and I have both been longingly anticipating to see.

Halifax, at least from the freeway was beautiful.  The bridge provided clear views to one of two well run shipyards.  A ship liner was docked and being prepared for it's voyage with shipping containers that uniformly rested on the ship's deck anticipating it's delivery.  It was colourful and impressive, just knowing that within each container, someone on the receiving end is waiting for their parcel to arrive.

As we exited the freeway, Davis took us down the coastline where almost instantly the landscaped changed from what we have become accustom to; the grand large granite cliffs and out jetting red islands from the numerous bays which eventually lead to the Bay of Fundy.  Distant fog hovered over the peeks and valleys as we ascended and descended the old highway.  Majestic is the best way I would describe the view from our car window.

Our long await for Peggy's Cove was our first stop.  As we approached the cove the fog started rolling in thicker, leaving at times the landscape to our imagination.  What was once clear was suddenly changed by fog, as the geometrical structure of the hillsides and houses appeared and vanished without warning.  Granite bluffs and robust pines were soon replaced with large limestone boulders and spruces jetting out of cracks in the rock.

Upon arrival to Peggy's Cove, I opened the car door and perhaps due to the thick fog and the lonely cry of a bagpiper somewhere far off in the distance, an overwhelming feeling of solemness consumed me.  As we approached Peggy's massive rolling boulders of sea swept rock, there before me towered the lighthouse. To be honest, it's stature wasn't as enormous as I had always imagined, but what was enormous to me was the unexpected feelings as a result of the hundreds of years of heartaches of days gone by which rushed towards me; the sailors and fisherman lost at sea; the families captivated by the magic of these very rocks and landscape who have been innocently swept off the rocks and carried out to sea; the not one, but two Halifax explosions Davis shared with us during our ride to the cove; and of course, the Swiss Air Flight 111 and the 229 men, women and children on board on September 2, 1998.  It was as if I could feel the presence of these people who have been here before me and tragically disappeared.  The power of "the rock" seemed so surreal to me.  Yet, while experiencing this emotional turbulence, this power also drew me in.   I could have stayed here all day.  The water was actually pretty calm, a pretty rare experience Davis had suggested to us.  Because of the Atlantic's calmness today, the fog hung over us, moving in and away from us giving slight promise to sunshine, only to take it away again within seconds.  Also, as the fog lifted just enough to reveal a bit more than the rocks I stood on and the infamous lighthouse, behind us appeared a fishing village - even more quaint than I had imagined it.

A short jaunt down the road lead us to the memorial for the crew and passengers aboard Flight 111.  What was even more impressive to me is the inscription on both rocks within this tribute.  Facing the structure with my back to the water, the 1/2 stone to the left was in honour of the those who lost their lives on the flight.  At the top of this structure, 3 exact vertical cuts were made.  Davis explained the cuts in the rock represented each "1" in the plane's flight number.  If you peered through any one of these cuts, your eye would be in line to the estimated area as to where the flight tragically plunged into the water.  The second 1/2 of this rock was dedicated to members of the community and beyond who had a hand with the recovery operation and support of the grieving families.  In my limited travels, I have observed many memorials, but to have this structure, split to represent everyone's life affected by this tragedy is unforgettable to me.  As visitors to this monument, in all the crowd present, each of us spoke in low voice and with respectful reflection.  How does a tragedy so great, ever lose it's power and impact to those who stand in it's aftermath?  I don't think it ever does.  I hope it never does.  I guess that's why monuments are erected.  To leave their imprint to remind us how fragile life is, and how powerful forces beyond ourselves can shape and influence us.

Okay, that was the tough part of the day.  It gets less gloomy from here - trust me!

As mentioned yesterday, we took Davis up the South Shore coastline (well he drove, we went along for the ride!) to witness it's amazing harbours and inlets of the Atlantic Ocean.  Hwy 103 has replaced the old highway #3 and for this reason Hwy #3 was chosen for us - to view the amazing inlets.  Davis took us over the hills and valley's of old hwy #3 and from what we saw, it was beautiful! 

Definitely not sharing
with you Myles!

Mahone Bay is another area which Ken really wanted to explore.  Davis took us to lunch at Kedy's Inlet Restaurant & Cafe here at Mahone Bay.  My Fettuccine and Smoked Salmon was delicious, while Ken feasted on a Scallop Burger and Caesar Salad.  He said it was delicious as well.  A couple of pictures later and the bus was on the move again.  Thankfully I twisted Davis' arm (yet again) to have a second beer with Ken, as this meant I got to drive, but it was only about 9 kms before we were in Lunenburg.  In fact, before we even realized it, we were in front of our B&B!  Knowing we are not far from Mahone's Bay we will ask Davis if we could back track and visit Mahone Bay again before we leave the area. 

Bluenose Lodge with
Lunenburg Bump!

The Bluenose Inn and B&B where we will stay for the next 2 nights is a "Lunenburg Bump" house; a five sided 'Scottish' dormer whose structure has been extended out beyond the buildings eaves, usually above the main entrance.  Approximately 20% of the houses here in Lunenburg have "bumps".  Andrea & Brennan are the owners of this very rustic and historical establishment.  We arranged to have the "Family Suite" to allow separate rooms for our friend and wise tour guide Davis and us.  As a result we will be rooming in the coach house, a small building just off the main house, allowing us pretty much the run of the self sustaining facility. There is another room across the hallway, but Andrea felt it would likely not be filled during our stay, leaving the bathroom and facilities all to us.  I was a bit concerned over the staircase leading up to our rooms for Davis, but just like the trooper he is, he seems pretty okay with it all - especially now that he knows the bathroom is all on the same floor!  Once we unpacked our belongings, the boys sprawled out and had their afternoon naps (it was likely needed after the beers anyways).  I however opted to sit and capture my day for our family and friends, something that I have loved doing ever since our first blog.

Once the boys rose from nap time, we prepared to see the town.  Little did I know it would be by car.  The town is small and quaint, a walk Ken & I will absolutely explore tomorrow.  After cruising the steep hilled streets we parked and headed for supper at the Old Fish Factory.  Dana & Linda, if you are reading this and heading to Lunenburg - you MUST eat here.  I don't know what these Maritimers do when preparing their food but I have NEVER tasted food so constantly good!!  I had the Stuffed Halibut with Crab and Lobster, Ken had the Cape Sable Salmon and Davis had the Lunenburg Sausage and Island Sauerkraut.  There was little conversation during the meal, but there was lots of pleasurable moaning going on!  I apologize for not sharing a picture of this divine meal...it was devoured before I realized I didn't share it with you!

Now back in the parlour of our B&B, I'm absolutely exhausted with the promise of yet another full day ahead.  Once again, with the influence of the local people, we are changing our 'sign off' to reflect the region.

May You be in Heaven
a 1/2 Hour Before the
Devil Knows You're Dead!
;-)   Chat with you tomorrow!
Tricia & Ken